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Dogfish is one of the smallest members of the shark family and can be found in most Spanish fish markets. And although for most people the word shark conjures up scenes from "Jaws", this particular example is a delicacy which shouldn�t be overlooked when looking for some tasty fish to eat. Because tasty it is. It�s a white fish with a firm flesh and a delicate flavour. However here in Spain we tend to go more for whatever is sold as frozen hake (in fact it is more likely to be some inferior fish, like forkbeard if we�re lucky) rather than risk trying something new which might turn out to be delicious.

How many people thought that "bienmesabe" the famous pickled fish dish of southern Spain, was hake? Well it�s nothing of the sort. What�s more, dogfish can be cooked in a great many different ways: in a sauce � perhaps the typical saffron yellow sauce made on the Andalusian coast � , fried, pickled, or baked.

One of the advantages of this fish is that we can get the fishmonger to fillet it, that is, take out the backbone.

Bearing in mind that the sandpaper skin of the dogfish is inedible, I would recommend taking some fillets, marinating them for 10 to 20 minutes in a little lemon, paprika, and olive oil, then breadcrumbing and frying them.

But there is one drawback to the dogfish. You have to buy it to eat the same day since it very quickly starts to give off a rather unpleasant ammonia-like smell the moment it is anything less than completely fresh.

(Translator�s note: British readers may be surprised to know that dogfish is sold in traditional fish and chip shops as rock salmon. We have our prejudices too�)