It all begins with a broth, just like Madrid-style stew, although the maragato touch at the end is different. It's just one of those culinary rules imposed by no one knows whom. The same thing applies to the fish stew of the Mar Menor region of eastern Spain. The traditional fishermen's recipe says the fish is eaten first, then the rice. Not the other way around.

Still, bouillabaisse is often referred to as the queen of fish soups because ultimately it is similar to soup. And it is a seafood soup taken to its finest extreme.

The recipe goes like this: the edible parts of the fish are cleaned. However, the bones and small pieces - the so-called morralla, fish that swims around rocks and have so many bones they are only used to give flavor to this kind of dish - are also used in preparing bouillabaisse. Because in this case the bones of the big fish will enhance the flavor of the smaller ones.

Some kind of shellfish is also added in general, such as crabs, along with a pinch of hot pepper and fennel to give the dish a Mediterranean flavor.

Examples of fish used to make bouillabaisse are gilthead, sargo, porgy, sea bass and black scorpion- fish. You can use more than one in the same pot. Those in the know tend to use two, and at the most three.

The recipe typical of Provence calls for half a kilo of monkfish heads, 250 grams of rock-based fish, two liters of water, one onion, half a kilo of potatoes, two cloves of garlic, 250 grams of tomatoes (or a tablespoon of tomato paste), half a glass of white wine, a bay leaf, thyme and parsley, salt, pepper, a dash of olive oil and butter.

Saut�e the onion in a pot with the butter and olive oil, and simmer it with the white wine until it is reduced. Add the tomato cut in pieces and let it cook a while. Then add the garlic and the potatoes, sliced thin, the herbs, the monkfish, the rock fish heads and mix it all together. Add salt and pepper, and two liters of water. Boil for 20 minutes. When the broth is ready, add the tails of the rock fish and cook for another 10 minutes. All you have left to do is separate the fish -which will fall off the bone- and strain the rest.

Of course, we cannot forget the sauces. You can serve it with garlic mayonnaise called all i oli, or even better, rouille, which is essentially a version of the former only with sweet or hot paprika, although some cooks like to add tomato paste. The cookbook entitled La bonne cuisini�re proven�al of the late 19th century said the rouille should contain high-quality Spanish paprika.

One more thing: bouillabaisse is delicious in winter, although some like it in summer, even if it is a bit hot. The dish, that is. It's the perfect prelude to a nice long siesta.