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The word sardine comes from the Latin sarda, as the island of Sardinia was called, famous for its huge catches of this small fish. The species was always controversial. The Greeks did not like sardines, but the Romans loved them. When the emperor Carlos V arrived in Spain via the small Asturian village of Tazones, he tried roasted sardines for the first time and liked them so much he told his aides to write down the name and how to season these small, humble fish. Sardines also had fierce defenders in prestigious chefs such as �lvaro Cunqueiro and Julio Camba, and these days they are considered a tasty and healthy food for everyone.

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Kinds of sardines
There are two subspecies of sardine: the Atlantic variety is large, with a small head and large body, while the Mediterranean sardine is smaller. The quality of the fish does not depend on its size or shape but on the freshness of the meat and the time of year it is caught. Although sardines can be eaten year round, the best period is the one Spaniards call from virgin to virgin, from the July 16, the feast of�Our Lady of Mount�Carmel, to August 15, the feast of the Assumption. The reason is that the surface waters where the sardine lives heat up during this period, and the plankton the fish feed on is more abundant. So the fish gorge themselves on it, and their flesh accumulates fat, making it much more tasty. The fact that it is a dark-meat fish, rich in Omega 3 fatty acids, is an added benefit.

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Sardines are so rich in flavour you don't need to do much to prepare them. If you have not tried whole sardines, roasted on a barbecue or on a spit, you don't really know how good they are. Or, with the heads and entrails removed and preserved in oil or pickling sauce they are delicious all year round. And don�t forget those boxes of dried sardines that used to be sold in corner grocery stores. With the skin and bones removed they were great in egg dishes and omelettes. The traditional Galician empanada of xoubas, as the smaller northern sardines are known, blended filets of sardine with zaragallada, a stew of onion, pepper and good olive oil. The stew is the heart of the Galician empanada and goes well with both fish and meat. Then there is the Mediterranean version featuring vegetables topped off with filets of sardines. Positively delicious.

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The star of good cuisine
In modern cuisine, filets of sardine are coated in light Japanese tempura. Sardines can also be stuffing for citrus fruits, or be stuffed themselves with a mix of chopped ham, tomato or vegetable stew, as if they were sandwiches from the sea. Pasta and potato dishes go well with fresh or tinned sardines. And in small deep-fried empanadillas or potato salad, sardines are a nice alternative to tuna in oil or in pickling sauce.

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Sardines have a strong smell that becomes evident when you cook or eat them, and even long afterward. It is best to cook them outdoors. But if you must do it at home, you can use
a microwave oven, or cover the sardines with a thick layer of salt if you roast them in a regular oven. Another way to reduce the odour is burning bay leaves or eucalyptus, and wash the plates on which you served the sardines with a bit of vinegar
or lemon juice. Sardines are so good they are well worth a bit of inconvenience.

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