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Turrones
The turr�n (a traditional Spanish nougat) was inherited from the Arabs and a derivative of the alfajor or alaj�. Hard or soft, but always made of almonds or honey, they share the table with other more modern versions of chocolate, pineapple or tiramis� flavours that have little in common with the traditional concept of the turr�n.

In the so-called Sent Sovi, the gastronomic bible of the 14th century, the street selling of turr�n is mentioned and, from the 16th century onwards, Jijona and Alicante become the home of turr�n, and the names have stuck right up until the present day. There are three classic recipes: Alicante, hard, Jijona and guirlache. The first two are made with honey and whole almonds, while the Jijona or soft version uses ground almonds. Guirlache is a variant of the hard version that substitutes honey with caramelised sugar. The other turrones - yema (yolk), C�diz or caramelised fruit - are varieties of marzepan.

An azumbre (2.016 litres) of honey, one and a half of hazelnuts and toasted almonds... Thus begins the recipe of the pearl of Arab sweets, the mythical alfajor or alaj�, in the ancient cookery book of doctor Thebussen. A recipe that has lasted until today with little change and whose secret lies in the mixture of spices - aniseed, coriander, sesame, cinnamon and clove - that give this glazed sugar cone its distinctive taste.

Polvorones and mantecados
Of far more humble origin, polvorones, mantecados, hojaldrinas and roscos de vino complete the range of Andalusian Christmas cakes. Polvorones (dust cakes) are made of toasted flour, lard and sugar to make a more or less solid paste that crumbles into dust when eaten, hence its name. Mantecados are more creamy and damp in texture than polvorones thanks to the addition of a beaten egg.

Hojaldrinas and empanadillas are made with fine pastry filled with almond and yolk paste. Similar to the All Saints' Day panellets, pi�onates are marzipans covered in pine nuts; roscos de vino or an�s are doughnuts flavoured with wine and aniseed liquor; and cortadillos are filled with a pumpkin and pastry mixture.

The rosc�n de Reyes
This is one of the unmissable Spanish Christmas cakes. Its origin is uncertain although it has been compared to the cakes that were served in the Saturnalian feasts when nobles and commoners came to visit. The cake had a broad bean inside and whoever found it became the feast's master of ceremonies. In France they still call whoever finds the bean king.

In 16th century Navarra, the kings chose a child and gave him or her money and maize; while in Catalonia, the tortell de reis, made of dough and crystallised fruit was the king of Christmas cakes and also had a broad bean inside that meant that whoever found it had to pay for the tortell. Nowadays, a figure has replaced the broad bean, but the tradition that the person that finds it has to pay for the roscon still holds.