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The traditional red cabbage, with or without apple; the select thistles or the splendid shellfish are transformed into the lightest of salads where the fish doesn't affect the taste of new vegetables such as ficoide glaciar and the more well-known rocket, hoja de roble o batavia. The salads offer contrasting flavours, combining citrus fruits such as green apple or grapefruit with the soft texture of avocado and the spicy taste of blue cheese such as cabrales or roquefort. On this special occasion, the salad dressing is of extra virgin olive oil with vintage vinegar from Jerez or Modena. Adding pepper, a drop of honey, mustard or a mixture of five berries is a question of taste.

The trend is towards a lighter cuisine that replaces the traditional stuffed turkey (still very popular in many households) with the leanest parts of other birds covered in sauces made from meat juices and the accompanying vegetables, reduced and flavoured at the last minute with oloroso wine and truffle juices

Cream can be used to tone down the sauce, but in smaller quantities, so as to add creaminess without the fat. Even the famous Pedro Subijana sea bass, very popular in the seventies, has seen its cream content successfully reduced by a third in the 21st century. We are coming to realise that the best and healthiest option is to accompany meat and fish with its own juices, without adding an excess of fat.

Fish lovers know that marine species become symbols of luxury at this time of year, along with exquisite duck pat�, caviar and oysters. Luckily, wild sea bass isn't usually served with heavy sauces such as tartar or vinegar, rather its clean flesh is steamed along with vegetables and algae and accompanied with an aromatic herb sauce of spring onions, basil or pesto.

This is the perfect formula to enjoy the taste of the fish, even if you use lower-priced species.

Oil spills, excess cholesterol and high prices keep fish at bay, but not completely off the Christmas menu as it is part of the tradition and, let's admit it, the extravagance that accompanies the festivities.

Traditional Spanish Christmas cakes such as alfajores, polvorones, dried fruit and turrones share a place on the Christmas table with the products of other countries: globalisation at its best allows us to enjoy festive food from every corner of the world during the most family-oriented celebrations of the year. All this without ever losing touch with our roots, because the end of year cava and grapes can never be replaced.