When Hern�n Cort�s arrived on the coast of Mexico in the late 16th century he discovered a beautiful tree which had grown in America for centuries. Their fruit, bright green in color and with a creamy, tasty flesh, were soon popular with the new settlers. But as anything pleasing was suspected of being sinful, the missionaries travelling with the conquistadors quickly banned them during Lent because their rich flavour and texture were reminiscent of meat. Avocados were introduced to Spain when Cort�s returned, but no one paid much attention until 10 or 12 years ago when they started being grown in on the coast of Granada, between Motril and Almu��car, where the weather conditions are just like the natural habitat of the avocado.

The avocado tree is part of the laurel family and ranges in height from 4 to 20 meters. From its small greenish flowers oval-shaped fruit emerges. The fruits look like pears but have a tough skin hiding a flesh that, depending on the variety, ranges in color from an ivory tone to a greenish yellow. The average weight is 250 to 300 grams.

There are three main breeds -the Mexican, the Guatemalan and the Antilles- which were later crossed to produce a great variety of hybrids. The Mexican strain ripens in summer and autumn. The Guatemalan has especially tough skin which is at times grainy and brittle. It ripens in spring. The Antilles strain has flexible skin and ripens in the autumn. Its seeds are smaller than those of the other kinds of avocado.

Avocados taste a bit like hazel nuts and in the mouth they melt like fresh butter. Indeed, they are 15% fat. But the fat has no cholesterol and eating it prevents cardiovascular diseases. Avocados are rich in mono-� and polyunsaturated fatty acids, just like olive and sunflower oil. Avocados also have fiber, vitamin E and potassium, which keeps blood pressure down. It is highly nutritional because just 100 grams equal 200 calories and the oil is a high quality cosmetic.

Avocados continue to ripen even after they are picked, so they can be purchased when they are not quite ripe, then kept in the refrigerator. When kept at room temperature and wrapped in a newspaper, they will ripen in about five days. The pulp of the fruit oxidises quickly when exposed to air, so it is best to add a dash of lemon. If you are only going to eat half of the avocado, leave the other half joined to the pit, moistened with lemon juice and wrapped in plastic.

When cooking, avocado makes great creamed soups, goes very well with shellfish and is the main ingredient of a delicious guacamole. In salads they offer a nice, soft contrast to crunchy leaves of lettuce and pieces of apple, and also play off tomatoes nicely. The taste is also highlighted when eaten with smoked fish or herring, salmon or mullet eggs, not to mention sturgeon caviar. There is a new, smaller variety of avocado about the size of a pickle and without the pit. They are perfect for any kind of salad. Sweet recipes for avocados are more rare, and although we can make creams, mousse and ice cream, this is a vast area that is ripe for exploration.