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A large number of myths and legends have formed around aromatic herbs, no doubt as a result of their curative powers. According to tradition herbs must be sown in the first or second week of the lunar cycle and collected naked when the full moon is out or at least barefoot and dressed in a white tunic like the druids and using a golden shovel. Herbs have been used as a protective amulet against bad spirits and symbols of a language that in Victorian times was attributed to flowers and medicinal treatments with more or less efficient formulas in the form of infusions, unguents and cataplasms.
Healthy dishes The use of aromatic herbs to season dishes is very common nowadays and the great chefs incorporate them into many of their dishes. This is the case of Andr�s Madrigal, chef of Madrid's Balzac and Azul Profundo restaurants. Andres wanted to be a photographer and began working as a chef to raise funds to buy a camera. However, his cooking talents soon came to the fore and he was encouraged to stick to food. Juan Mari Arzak offered him the chance to work in one of his restaurants for a few months and from there he moved on to other restaurants and learnt from such masters as Alain Ducasse and Pierre Verge. A good basis for developing his ingenious skills in risky combinations that made for surprising dishes.
The use of herbs is one of the characteristics of this rising star of Spanish cuisine. Herbs serve to give a dish personality, says Andr�s Madrigal. You must try various possibilities to find the most appropriate combination of herbs, starting with small amounts, although there are failproof combinations. One of these is Italian pesto, made up of basil, nuts or pine nuts, parmesan, plus optional cream or butter to make a delicious sauce. You should avoid mixing two bitter-tasting herbs, such as basil and sage; for better results mix with fennel, which is sweeter.
Varieties with curative powers Some herbs such as thyme, rosemary and thyme are as good dried as they are fresh, while dried bay leaf has a stronger aroma and fennel and basil, among others, are more aromatic when fresh. As a general rule Andr�s Madrigal recommends using dried herbs in infusions and fresh ones to make oils. You should also check the best before date on the containers because the herbs lose their aroma after a year. The oils only require fresh herbs and a good processor. You process the oil and use it immediately. If you want to keep it for a few days, it is best to heat up the leaves in boiling water and pass them immediately to a bowl with iced water before processing them with the oil, according to Madrigal.
Natural aphrodisiacs The aphrodisiacal power of aromatic herbs is not a myth according to Madrigal, author of Placeres de alcoba, a delicious book on erotic, romantic and aphrodisiacal cuisine who confirms that in order to stir a diminished libido lemon verbena is a good remedy, although spices like cinnamon and vanilla give excellent results. When we ask him about his most daring combination, he answers without pausing for breath: a mixture of cannabis and melted chocolate in the right proportions is highly stimulating although more conservative spirits may incline towards his fig biscuit in chocolate sauce if they wish to experience an intense pleasure of the senses.
Restaurante Balzac Moreto, 7 28014 Madrid Tefno: 91 420 01 77
Azul Profundo Plaza de Chueca, 8 28004 Madrid Tfno: 91 7010183
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