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Tools and building materials
Drill, appropriate-size bit, expansion plugs and screws that come with the kit you buy, plumb line or level, screwdriver, measuring tape, a metal spike, a silicon gun or tube.

Follow these steps, which are common to all models, although there might be variations:

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Take measurements
This is the most important step. You must take exact measurements of your shower stall or bathtub. It is essential in order for everything to fit. Buy the right model.

For a bathtub you can use a solid or folding partition. If the tub is freestanding on both sides, without touching the wall, you can put a door on both sides. It does not need to cover the whole length.

With shower stalls it all depends on where they are situated. You can make one of the doors fixed and another folding or sliding, if you have enough space.

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Start by holding the first fastening profile up against the wall, resting it against the wall of stall or the bathtub.

Mark the holes, making sure with a plumb line or level that they line up vertically.

Then remove the section and drill the holes. Insert the plugs. 6 mm ones should do.

As you do this task, make sure you cover the floor of the stall or the bathtub, both the enamel and the drain. Hard plastic or cardboard will do the trick.

It is also a good idea to keep the fastening profiles and above all the plastic or glass sheets in another room while you drill so they are not broken. Some bathrooms are just too small.

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Fasten the first profile firmly to the wall.

You must then fit the door in it and fasten it with lateral screws which will later be covered with decorative caps.

Install the corner profile, in which you will include a plastic butt for the door if it is of the folding variety. If it slides, it will rest on rails.

The process is identical if you are working with a folding partition or the door of the stall.

Screws allow you to regulate the slight drop of the door so it adapts perfectly to the inclination of the stall or bathtub. They always have such an incline so the water will drain properly.

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The profiles must be perfectly sealed to the wall in order to be watertight. You must do the same with the profile attached to the floor of the stall. This is done with a line of silicon.

You can do this with a silicon gun and cartridge or a small tube of silicon. Spread a small line of it along the joints.

Immediately thereafter, with your finger moistened with water and soap, press gently alone the line. Remove excess quickly.

To avoid problems, first clean the joints to remove moisture, dust or grease. Wait 24 hours before using the shower or bathtub.

Always use silicon treated with a fungicide.

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You will almost certainly have to drill through tile since the walls of bathrooms are almost always covered with this material. Drilling through them is not hard but to avoid unnecessary breaks you should be careful.

To break the surface of the enamel, tap gently with a spike and a hammer in the chosen spot. As you tap, turn the spike. When a speck of enamel is dislodged, you can apply the bit and start drilling. It is better to do it without the hammer setting. This way the bit will not move.

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There are many models of shower stalls and partitions, both in terms of size and material. The difference lies in the quality. Many use hard plastic or break-resistant glass. They can be patterned and come in a variety of colors.

It is best to choose a model with profiles that resist corrosion.

For bathtubs you will find doors with standard measurements starting at 160 cm of height and 80 cm of width. They come in one or more sections, either fixed or folding.