Tools and materials
- the awning and its gear, usually bought as a kit or made to order
- measuring tape
- wrench, generally 10-11 size, for hexagonal-headed screws
- Fischer-type, 8-mm plugs, 8-mm screws
- Ratchet brace with a 10-mm hexagonal head
- Drill and bits
- a T wrench

What awnings are
o They are usually made of acrylic canvas or cotton. You will have no problem picking a color or design because the supply is ample. If you are going to install the awning on the facade of a building with a residents' association, check with them first to see if there is an ordinance saying all such awnings must be identical.
o On buildings with facades that are legally protected for historical or cultural reasons, awnings may be illegal.

The parts of an awning
o There are basically two models: bonnet-style, which are round and folding like the top part of a baby stroller, and the flat, roll-up kind. The components are similar, as is the way the two models work.
o A bonnet-style awning has the following components: an upper rod with two holes on each side. On the lower end it has an arch, at the ends of which are two legs or rotating anchors that are bolted to the wall. The bonnet goes up and down with a system of small pulleys and a rope that runs through rings.
o The flat-style awning has a powerful straight arm, or transmission, around which the canvas rolls up. One end of it goes into an anchoring device, known as the punto or point.
o The other is fixed to an anchor and a mechanism known as the maquina or machine. The mechanism has a lever that raises or lowers the awning to the desired position, as marked by the legs. These are screwed to the wall at one end, and at the other to the lower pipe of the awning.

Installing the bonnet-style awning
o�Measure the place where you are going to place the first square. We suppose you want to do it in the interior space of a large window. Leave at least 1.5 cm between the ceiling and the square so that you can place the rod over the screw of the pivot. Mark the holes in pencil. Do the same at the other end, at the same height.
o Drill, stick in the plugs and screw in tightly with the wrench or ratchet brace. Before drilling at the other end, check the position, placing the awning at the end you have already anchored and in the uninstalled square.
o After setting them, insert the rods and place the security screws in the upper part. Let the legs fall and screw them to each of the sides. A drilled hole further down will help situate the chord-tie.

Installing a flat awning
o� This is similar to the previous procedure. Measure the height of the anchors and leave 5 cm of space so the awning can roll up properly.
o Hold the �point� anchoring device of one end, drill, install the plugs and screw in. Put the machine with screws in the other anchor. Introduce the transmission in the point that is already anchored, and at the other end calculate the position of the so-called machine. Mark the spot and take it all back down again. Drill and put the plugs in place, but do not yet screw in the anchoring of the machine.
o Place the transmission back in the point, then in the machine. Take the latter into its position and screw in tightly.
o Keep the arms totally straight and make holes.
o Join the upper parts of the arms to the two mobile rulers.

A few tips
o� If the holes are made on the sides of the window, blow as you drill so that dust will not fall into the room.
o Don't use the hammer option on your drill as you begin to use the tool� if you are drilling into brick or soft materials.
o As a precaution, when there is a lot of wind, lift or roll up the awning to avoid the sailboat effect and keep the awning from suffering damage.