Times of year for pruning
In general, rose bushes should be pruned when they are in a vegetative state, although each variety or kind of rose bush has a certain period for pruning, which can also change depending on the goal you want to achieve. It is a good idea to fertilise the bushes with�earthworm humus a month before pruning. This will nourish them enough so that the pruning does not sap their vigour or nutritional reserves.

With bushes located in areas at risk of hail or snow, it is better to carry out a pre-pruning: eliminate a third of the plant so that the weight of the snow does not snap the branches. This is done at the end of autumn when temperatures have gone down enough to avoid stimulating new shoots, or at the beginning of winter, but always before the first snow or hail. The definitive pruning is done at the end of winter in warm areas or at the beginning of spring in cold ones.�

Climbing species are pruned slightly starting with the second year of their planting, in spring or fall. Leave several main stems, from which small, equidistant branches will sprout. It is here where the flowers will bloom. These branches will be pruned at a bud pointing outwards from the main support. Horizontal branches stop the sap, so the branches to prune are the ones that sprout vertically from these.

Kind of pruning
- Severe.� Leave three buds from the base of the rose bus. This is done with bushes that are well established and quite vigorous, such as tea hybrids or climbers, to produce a large amount of well-formed flowers and encourage a healthy leafiness that will maintain these flowers. On the down side, it causes a proliferation of suckers.�
- Moderate. The main stalk is cut at the halfway point and the secondary branches are left with one or two buds.�
- Light. Branches are trimmed back a third of their length. This is done with mini rose bushes and covering bushes.
- Directional pruning. Stalks have buds (or branches) that go off in different directions. If you eliminate part of the branch by cutting above a bud that is facing toward the outside of the plant, the growth will be in an outward direction. You achieve better exposure to the sun and the plant is well ventilated, thus avoiding fungal diseases to which rose bushes are so prone.�
- Cutting off heads. Cut below withered flowers to clean and above all boost production of flowers (only in rose plants whose wild rose, in other words its hip, is not ornamental).
- Cutting off buds. Eliminate small buds and/or lateral sprouts in order to obtain large roses at the end of the stalk, ideal for cutting. �
- Cleaning. Intertwined stems must be cut, the ones heading into the rose bus, dry ones, stems with brown spots or which are erratically shaped and have suckers.
- Rejuvenating. This involves eliminating very woody stems year after year so as to make room for young and vigorous ones.

The importance of the cut
The pruning as such is as important as the tools used to do it. The cuts should be made in beveled fashion so that water drains away and the branch heals quickly without rotting. Never cut with the tip of the scissors.

Cut above a branch, bud or sprout at a distance of half a centimeter, although if there is danger of frost expand this distance by some�five milimeters to avoid losing the bud. If you cut too far from a sprout you risk causing rot. And if you cut next to it, the sprout will dry out and the previous one will bloom in the direction you did not want.�

The bud, branch or sprout to be saved above the cut should always face away from the plant.�

Pruning is an operation in which you must use the right tool and do the cuts properly so they heal quickly.
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Tools and equipment
Good tools for each task are always a good acquisition to do cuts that heal quickly and do not leave traces.�
- One-hand scissors. This is the tool most commonly used in well-kept rose bushes. They do cuts with a small diameter (no more than 20 mm) and are easy to handle.
-�Two-handed scissors or pruning shears. Cuts branches with a diameter of more than a hand (up to 50 mm)
- Handsaw. Used for branches with a diameter in excess of two hands or whose condition, location or toughness make it impossible to cut with scissors.
- Think gloves. Avoid pricks from thorns and scratches, which are easily infected.
-�Fan. To clean the area from the trimmings of the pruning operation.

Other tips for pruning rose bushes
- Sweep away the trimmings, the base of the rose bus should always be free of these and of weeds because they cause diseases and infection.
-� There is no point in pruning a species that is sick or has no chance of recovering.�
- Eliminate all suckers as soon as you detect them, these are branches that are too vigorous, with more thorns than others, and usually appear below the graft. They sap the plant of strength and do not produce the sought-after flowers.
-�Water after pruning, avoiding getting the plant itself wet. Fertilise with earthworm humus if you have not already done it, to encourage rapid healing of the cuts and nourish the bush adequately.
- Before pruning, go through a botanical garden or rose garden to see how it is done properly.�
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