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Although the term macram� is of Arab origin, the technique has been dated back to Palaeolithic times, an era in which men already knotted together diverse materials to make bags and hunting utensils. When macram� spread throughout Europe, the countries in which it was most eagerly taken up were Greece, Spain and Italy. In Spain it was used in the 16th and 17th centuries to decorate the frayed edges and tassels of religious objects. Later uses were found for domestic objects, such as the frayed edges of towels for example. Since the 1960s this ancient technique was revived once again and macram� is now as popular as ever, especially in sectors such as cosmetic jewellery, accessories and fashion. Belts, flower pots, bags, waistcoats, lamps, cushions, curtains, slippers, shelves, floral adornments, carpets, hairbands, diadems, bracelets or armbands are just some of the objects that can be made using this technique.
Macram� techniques The only knowledge required for this technique is the ability to tie two knots of two or more threads on a rigid strand which can take any one of multiple combinations. One of the most characteristic knots in macram� is the half squared or twisted knot, which must be started with the left strand until the plaited design is achieved. If the first part is done in this way and the second part is started with the right strand then the flat squared knot is the result.
Generally, the knots are done with two or three strands. In the first group the simple knot needs a guiding strand, which does not move, and another which is twisted around it. When this process is carried out twice, a double knot is the result. The guiding strand can be alternated once (called simple alternation) and twice (double). The types of knots with three strands have a guiding strand that alternates with the strand that moves around it, whose knots are simple or double.
Materials and applications The first Palaeolithic men used strips of fibrous leaves, strips of hunted animals and plaited straw to make their hunting utensils. Nowadays you can use various materials in macram�. Hemp, jute, sisal plant, cotton, linen, wool, synthetic fibres, metal fibres, strips or silks can be used to make different knots with varying qualities. In jewellery, these materials are combined with metal, glass and hard plastic, gold, silver and different colours (white, red and yellow) that can be either dark, clear, sparkling or matt. The colours are above all important in fashion where the latest trend is to have subtle shades of blues, greens, pinks, yellows and purples alongside bright orange, magenta, red and green colours.
A sponge cushion or a cord table are two of the bases on which these materials can worked if held with firm clasps. In costume jewellery, linking hoops made of clay, plastic or wood are needed to slip in the 1 millimetre thick threads through them.
China, an example of millennial art In addition to its practical and decorative function, in China macram� has a special significance which linked to its ancient culture. There are around a dozen basic knots depending on their shape, use and origins. For example, the Pan Chang knot comes in several varieties but its significance does not change: it is a symbol of the origin and continuity of everything. Chinese macram� has tight and symmetrical knots that can be combined in myriad ways, all of which have a high decorative and ornamental value. The process is to tie the knots, tighten them and then finish them off by adding pearls or precious metals among the knots. Cotton, linen, silk, nylon, leather and precious metals (gold and silver) are the materials used in China. The household utensils and furniture, decoration, fashion, female accessories (the famous fans) and art (above all painting and sculpture) are the where the beauty of Chinese crafts come to the fore.
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